Stravinsky and the Fashion Revolution of 1916

When, in late 1915, the newly founded Musical Arts Association announced its intentions to participate as a host city for the Ballet Russe’s first ever American tour, mouths watered. In The Cleveland Orchestra Archives, a single scrapbook usually contains press clippings related to the better part of a season. But the press surrounding the promised arrival of the Ballet Russe occupies a book of its own. Yet one cannot overcome a sense that the ballet itself took second place to the glimpse into unchartered culture promised by Stravinsky’s and Leon Bakst’s production. Sketches of contorted dancers in decidedly foreign attire circulated as speculation about what was sure to be a spectacle.

February 1, 1916 article from the Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads “Ah, Yes, Diaghileff’s Ballet Russe! It’s Coming Here With All Its Daring” and containing original sketches of dancers in costume by Leon Bakst. 
February 1, 1916 article from the Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads “Ah, Yes, Diaghileff’s Ballet Russe! It’s Coming Here With All Its Daring” and containing original sketches of dancers in costume by Leon Bakst.

Clevelanders warmly embraced fresh inspiration, infusing their closets and kitchens with all things Russian. “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” read the headline of a 1916 article in the Cleveland Press promulgating the Russianness of all things “in.”

Feb. 17, 1916 article from the Cleveland Press with a headline that reads: “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” depicting in-vogue fashion pieces, including a feathered hat and traditional Russian garment. 
Feb. 17, 1916 article from the Cleveland Press with a headline that reads: “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” depicting in-vogue fashion pieces, including a feathered hat and traditional Russian garment.
Local clothiers obliged, replacing the lampshade tunics and hobble skirts of Parisian couture with Bakst-inspired dresses recognizable for their exaggerated A-line shape.
March 12, 1916 article from the Plain Dealer that reads: “Hints of Bakst” and advertises the sale of a handbag inspired by the Russian designer Leon Bakst 
Feb. 17, 1916 article from the Cleveland Press with a headline that reads: “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” depicting in-vogue fashion pieces, including a feathered hat and traditional Russian garment.
The excitement culminated in the opening performance on March 17, 1916, where concert-goers flaunted their fresh looks; sketches copied in a series of newspapers following the premiere depict women donning their latest Russian-inspired habiliments (below).
March 19, 1916 article from The Sunday Leader with a headline that reads: “Society Notables at the Ballet Russe Premiere as Sketched by Artist” containing sketches of concert-goers on opening night. 
March 19, 1916 article from The Sunday Leader with a headline that reads: “Society Notables at the Ballet Russe Premiere as Sketched by Artist” containing sketches of concert-goers on opening night.

March 17, 1916 article from Cleveland Plain Dealer with a headline that reads: “As Seen at the Ballet Russe” containing sketches capturing fashion choices of Petrouchka attendees.  
March 17, 1916 article from Cleveland Plain Dealer with a headline that reads: “As Seen at the Ballet Russe” containing sketches capturing fashion choices of Petrouchka attendees.

To be sure, the Musical Arts Association ushered in more than new music with its opening concert.

March 19, 1916, article from the Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads: “Ballet Passes, But Memories Linger.” 
February 1, 1916 article from the Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads “Ah, Yes, Diaghileff’s Ballet Russe! It’s Coming Here With All Its Daring” and containing original sketches of dancers in costume by Leon Bakst.

- Michael Quinn

Michael Quinn is a writer and research fellow in The Cleveland Orchestra Archives for the 2018/19 season. He is pursuing his masters in Historical Performance Practice at Case Western Reserve University.

For more information on Petrouchka, see http://www.clevelandorchestra.com/from-the-archives/from-the-archives/2015-4-22-stravinskys-petrouchka/ and for more information on The Cleveland Orchestra and Ballet, see https://www.clevelandorchestra.com/from-the-archives/from-the-archives/14-11-17-Dancing-Through-Time/